Mexico, Part II: From Root to Sip

There is a saying in Oaxaca: “Para todo mal…mezcal. Para todo bien…tambien.” [For everything bad…mezcal. For everything good…as well.]

Fermented from the Maguey (or Agave) plant, mezcal is akin to Tequila, the latter being similar to Champagne in that it can only be called such if it is produced in a particular region, Jalisco, Mexico, and from a particular varietal, the Blue Agave.

Real Minero is a small, artisan mezcal producer located in the Ocotlan district of Oaxaca. Last month I was fortunate to have the opportunity to visit the facility and witness nearly every step of the production process – from harvesting the fruit of the Maguey to distillation.

The care and devotion with which the employees at Real Minero focus on crafting their product was evident in every step of the process. Everything is done the slow way, mostly by hand and according to ancient traditions. “Other companies use metal containers to distill their mezcal,” explained the company’s owner, “and that comes through in the taste.”

The company is also intent on preserving the region’s ecology. Rather than resorting to monoculture, Real Minero utilizes organic techniques to cultivate a wide range of Maguey species, many of which are scarce and even nearing extinction. This is no easy charge, as some varietals require fifteen to twenty five years to mature.

Each varietal of the plant yields an entirely distinct flavor and smell – in its cooked flesh as well as the final distilled mezcal. Like fine wine, mezcal is meant to be savored; it is not imbibed to get drunk. (For locals accustomed to its potency, that is. I can’t pretend I wasn’t a little light headed on occasion.)

CLICK HERE to view my series of images of the mezcal production at Real Minero.

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Tags: agave, maguey, Mexico, mezcal, Oaxaca, tequila